We have a dyno because it allows us to do testing and diagnostics that simply cannot be done on the street.
There are many systems of the vehicle that only operate when the car is at speed and under load. This cannot be replicated while the vehicle is stationary or moving slowly in a parking lot.
Having a "built" motor means you have replaced some or all of the factory components with upgraded aftermarket ones.
The term "built" is very loose term and varies from only a few improved components to a well built one with major upgrades, choose wisely.
A common thing to do is what is called a piston slap. A new or used stock shortblock has it's pistons removed and replaced with upgraded ones. This is a very economical way to upgrade a motor, but it doesn't always yield the best results.
In the case of a used shortblock, installing new pistons without properly preparing / honing the cylinder walls will cause ring seating problems and engine failure. This is probably the cheapest way to get a "built" motor and you will get what you pay for.
This is where taking shortcuts will lead you to failure | A proper built motor will have the entire rotating assembly upgraded. This includes crankshaft, rods, and bearings in addition to the pistons. There are hundreds of ways to piece these parts together, but all of them should start with a new or newly machined engine block. The cylinder walls must be perfectly round and have the proper cross-hatching for the rings to seat properly.
If the rings don't wear in properly, there will be excessive blow-by and a loss in compression. Improperly seated rings will lead to low power, oil consumption, and failure of the motor.
When building your shortblock, the pistons are the single most critical decision. There are many to choose from and some may not be correct for your application.
Factory pistons are hyperutectic. This means they are very strong, but very brittle. Similar to a pane of high quality glass, they can take enormous stress loads, but a sudden shock load can cause them to shatter. Detonation, or knock, is the primary killer of pistons. It only takes one fairly mild detonation event to shatter a stock piston.
Aftermarket pistons are of the forged design and are made of a softer material than hyperutectic ones and can handle a sudden knock event without breaking. These are not bullet proof though... a very strong detonation or a series of them can still destroy forged pistons.
When pushing an engine towards higher power, knock will happen. Forged pistons are what allows a tuner to push to the limit, then back off a little bit when that limit is found. Without the ability to take these light knock events, max power cannot be found.
Even on a perfect tune, knock happens. Bad gas or very high operating temperatures can casue a detonation. It's extremely difficult to prevent all knock, so make sure your pistons are up to the challenge, choose your build wisely.
You read many forums, and the real issue is that you are still cautious because this is your daily driver.
You've modded the engine and now it's putting out 150hp more than stock. You've upgraded the suspension with coilovers and chassis stiffening braces and sway bars. You've fit the widest wheels and tires for the most grip. Your new brakes are HUGE!
Every car on the road that runs on gasoline has spark plugs. Some cars even have 2 plugs per cylinder. Bust just like different cars have different motors, different motors have different spark plugs. On most cars, checking or changing your plugs is a simply DIY task. On a few cars, getting to the spark plugs requires a bit a disassembly or difficult access.
Most inline and V type engines have the plugs right on the top of the motor making access a snap.
H type and transversely mounted motors may have plugs mounted low and on the side of the motor or on the backside tight against the firewall. These plugs may be difficult to access or require the removal of the intake manifold. These types of motors are better left to the professional.
Most newer cars only need a scan of the cars computer system to pass emissions. But that's not always as easy as it sounds.
We recently had a customer that had bought a Hennessey Challenger SRT600 from out of state and was really surprised to find out it would not pass emissions here in Colorado. Here is what happened:
Failing clutch pedals on 2008 and newer Subarus seems to be a continuing issue. We are getting at least one a week to repair at the moment.
As these cars age, I am seeing an increasing number with the same problem. Seven spot welds from the factory assembly process do not hold over time and break free causing high wear on the components that depend on the factory structural integrity.
Part 2 | A gauge is a way for us to turn these measurements into a visual scale for us to interpret. But there doesn't have to be one gauge for every sensor. In fact, there can be hundreds of sensors and no gauges.
When it comes to choosing what gauges you want in your car, first you need to find out what sensors are already installed from the factory, then you decide on what level of information you want to see. More isn’t always better.
I often get asked what gauges should I install in my performance vehicle? The real answer is “It Depends”.